McCargoe A paddling trip in the watery wilderness of Isle Royale... Our canoe route: twenty miles of lakes, portage paths, protected coves, and a couple miles of Lake Superior, the last a bit disconcerting as our canoe was then-untested in open waters. And now loaded down with gear and food for a week, with precious little freeboard. We were counting on the old saying “red sky at night, sailors delight”, for this sundown was a scarlet vision, and we had Superior tomorrow to contend with. Broke camp in the morning and put in, the water like glass. As we left the bay and entered big water, though, the glass quickly shattered as large seas broke over the starboard bow. Had to head up into the wind and steepening waves, avoiding rocky reefs, but taking us further offshore. When the chance came, turned quickly to port, broadside to the waves for a time that seemed forever. Put the wood to the water, power paddling in now quartering seas. Took on more water, but made ...